We all our favorites: our 1987 Suzuki has been with me since childhood. From the cabin, to the farm, to plowing snow, to pulling trailers, to super-low diff lock its arguably the most reliable and best ATV ever made. No chains. No belts. Well loved.
A goal is to make this a resource to keep these machines alive. More to come with specific tips, facts, and information specific to the:
LT-4WD 1987-1998 Suzuki QuadRunner 250
LT-F250F 1999-2002 Suzuki QuadRunner 250 – newer body style
LT-F4WDX 1991-1998 Suzuki King Quad 300 [300cc]
LT-F300F 1999-2002 Suzuki King Quad 300 [300cc] – newer body style
“Tackle the tough terrain in four-wheel drive, or switch easily to two-wheel drive using the dash mounted lever and discover what it can really do. The front differential can even be locked when in super low range for extra traction on snow, mud and ice.”
Suzuki lived up to the ads. I purchased NOS brochures and the official Suzuki Service Manual off eBay a few years ago and scanned them in an attempt to preserve history. The ad at the top was the first year: 1987 model pictures. Square axle nut boots (cone shaped all other years ), silver skid plate up front (black all other years), and the only year with the flip up/down front and rear racks. The LT-4WD had a retail price of $3298.00.
Be safe. Stay home. While working longer days now, COVID-19 has given an opportunity to brain dump topics I have been meaning to properly document.
Case-and-point: easy2boot is wonderful. You can boot literally anything off a USB stick. Windows 10 unattended? Yes. Name-your-partition-ISO? Yes. Tivo MFS Tools for hard drive cloning? Yes. Linux flavors? Absolutely. Random PCs that only do BIOS updates via ISO? Yes. And the list goes on… I use it almost daily and support the developer.
In the past few months, easy2boot can now UEFI Secure Boot a Windows 10 Recovery Environment from a FAT32 secondary partition, from there you can swap in an .imgPTN file (now .imgPTN23), reboot, and now load whatever OS you choose from UEFI Secure Boot. Brilliant!
The easy2boot site does a superb job in documenting technical details however that is partly the challenge; its a lot to understand. My use case: an all-power bootable USB stick for Windows installations and WinRE to swap in-and-out different versions. I prefer two identical USB drives for redundancy. Two 64GB USB3.0 all-metal key-chain drives.
Download the latest version (as of writing: Easy2Boot_v2.00A_password_is_e2b.zip)
Make a new USB stick. As of v2.00, “The main change is that when you make a new drive, it will now download the agFM files and copy them to the second FAT32 partition (if present). This allows UEFI-booting to the agFM grub2 File Manager system. All thanks to ‘a1ive’ for developing his grub2 branch and agFM.” Make_E2B.exe and Make_E2B_USB_drive.cmd – downloads agFM if 2nd FAT32 partition is made. If drive is <128Gib then 2nd FAT32 partition of approx 500MB is automatically made.
Because my USB drives are 64GB, I resize (enlarge) the secondary FAT32 partition to ~1.2GB in size to handle the WinRE image [next step].
Add “No key (choose a version to install).xml” to the _ISO\WINDOWS\WIN10\ and _ISO\WINDOWS\WIN7\ directories if not already present. These answer files allow for the “Repair” option.
Copy Win10 ISOs (I always keep a few builds handy; both x86 and x64 combo)
Copy Win7 USB3 ISO (if you have a reason; helpful still for in-place upgrades for activation)
Copy Windows 10 x64 v1909 Injected.imgPTN23. The .imgPTN23 file extension is important. Follow the Adding UEFI/.imgPTN images guide carefully; specifically the “To convert an ISO to .imgPTN file for UEFI-booting” section.
Copy Win10XPE_x64.ISO to the root of your secondary FAT32 partition. This is what you can UEFI boot. You have to make this .ISO file; use Win10PE utility to do it.
Enjoy easy2boot! Its quite wonderful and actively developed. Please support the developer who probably spends a good percentage of their life on this project.
Its been too long. Small engines are a personal hobby; something I can do with our kids and my father. And its an opportunity to learn from “old” technology. I sincerely enjoy understanding the designs of the past; especially when we can’t implement the simplicity today (e.g. due to emissions).
My father picked this up. A first year, all original, one-owner 1971 Suzuki MT50 Trail-Hopper. Has 2665 miles on it. Included is an old Suzuki ad for this fun little machine (courtesy of CollectorsWeekly).
In the process of getting it back running, I could not locate a Service Manual for the MT50 that was freely available. Its important to pay it forward. Here is a scanned copy of a complete Suzuki Service Manual & Part List for Suzuki MT50 TrailHopper 1971, 1972, & 1973. The best section? Reed valves and C.C.I. pages 103-108.
May we take this opportunity to express our appreciation for your continuous efforts in expanding the sales market for our products. At this time we have marketed the Suzuki MT50, which has been made completely new in style and excellent in performance. The Suzuki MT50 has outstanding mechanisms such as reed valve, Suzuki "C.C.I." system and automatic clutch. The engine performance has been improved especially in low speed and climbing ability. And also its top speed registers 48-56 k m/h (30-35 mph). This Service Manual explains, mainly, the principles and construction of these new mechanisms. The most important items, such as disassembling, assembling, tips on adjusting, maintenance standards and tips on handling, are briefly but clearly described in this Manual. By making a practice of using this Manual, it will assist you in performing perfect servicing.
Came across this silly error while trying to enter DHCP reservations into Server 2012 R2. The issue is not related to the IP being outside the DHCP address pool.
If you try to add an UPPERCASE MAC address:
You get the following (un)helpful warnings:
“The Unique Identifier you have entered may not be correct. Do you
want to use this identifier anyway”
“The DHCP server received a message from a client that is not valid”
Which tells you nothing helpful or informative. After adjusting the Address Pool, it because clear that was not the issue. Using a random MAC address generator, the generated MAC worked without issue. Ironically it was lowercase. I converted my failed MAC address to lowercase and it worked without issue, even outside the Address Pool.
Ideally this saves others a few minutes in their day.
Edit the “shutdown_registry_printer_purge.bat” batch file. Go to Line 19 and 20 and change the server name in quotes for both lines. Two lines per printer.
REM ------------------------------> Add these two lines per printer to remove and change server name <------------------------------
rundll32 printui.dll,PrintUIEntry /gd /q /n"\\print\PaperCut"
rundll32 printui.dll,PrintUIEntry /dn /q /n"\\print\PaperCut"
Go to Line 23 and change the server name in quotes. One line per printer.
REM ------------------------------> Add this one line per printer to remove and change server name <------------------------------
ADPRINTX.exe /r "\\print\PaperCut"
Edit the “printer_hive_cleanup.vbs” file. Go to Line 117 and 119 and change the server name in quotes for both lines. Two lines per printer. A special thanks to Mick for his wonderful vbs script. If you want a less forceful method, Mick also references a way to do per-user registry edit using Active-Setup (I did not test this method).
Add the .bat file to a shutdown or startup script. The script must run as the SYSTEM user.
Other Resources on adding/removing Windows printers
While I rely on Windows 10, this is classic example of reliability engineering.
Keep it simple.
Because of time constraints, posts will be short and to the point.
Cortana would not index files and as a result, Windows Search was effective non-functional. A clean reinstall with our current set of GPOs caused my domain account to crash Cortana. Even after excluding the suspect GPO, my user profile would still not allow Cortana to index files and Control Panel/Metro settings. The error was: “Search results aren’t quite ready yet, but we’re working on getting them together. Try back in a few minutes.”
Google tells me many others are having the same issue: here, here, here here, here, and here if you want to read and learn more.
The fix? This assumes United States English. If you want a different language, copy/paste the files from the same location from a system with the identical language; e.g. en-GB
For the reasons Windows 10 is an upgrade, a freezing start menu is beyond frustrating. After rebuilding the Windows Search database, confirming DISM is healthy, did a CHKDSK and System File Checker, I was running out of ideas.
Before becoming aware of the Microsoft utility, I did my own fix. Using a tool called Unlocker (portable version; part of my digital toolbox) you can forcibly rename/delete files locked by the system. FYI, Unlocker can cause false-positives with anti-virus software. If you are concerned, please upload your downloaded copy to VirusTotal for a second scan.
Using Unlocker, I went to the following location:
Hit “OK”. Action should be “Rename” and change the name to “DatabaseBackup“.
Finally you should get the following prompt; his “Yes”.
Let the system reboot. Now – Reboot again – a second time
You will have to recreate your tiles but your start button should at least work and search.